Georgia is a country in Eastern Europe and West Asia. It is part of the Caucasus region, bounded by the Black Sea to the west, Russia to the north and northeast, Turkey to the southwest, Armenia to the south, and Azerbaijan to the southeast.
Tbilisi, georgia
April 12, 2025
Our Armenian guide and driver dropped us off at this long bridge and we walked on over to the other side.
Welcome to Georgia!
We drove for an hour and went straight to our dinner in Tbilisi. (I took this photo of the restaurant on a sunnier day).
The Georgian food was AMAZING. This cheese bread is called Imeruli khachapuri. Little did we know we'd have it at every meal!
Khinkali are traditional Georgian soup dumplings typically filled with spiced meat, herbs, and onions.
You hang onto the handle, turn it upside down, suck the juice out, and eat all but the handle.
The lobby at our nice hotel.
April 13, 2025
Today is our walking tour of Tbilisi. The Kura River runs through the center.
The Bridge of Peace is a bow-shaped pedestrian bridge over the Kura River, linking Rike Park with Old Town in central Tbilisi.
The dog was completely oblivious to the numerous people that stepped over it.
A piece of the Berlin Wall.
A mural near the bridge. In case you are wondering what most of the people think of Russia with their pro-Russian Georgian government...
...you'll see these messages everywhere. Many call the Russians "White Walkers" after an empire on Game of Thrones that wants to destroy mankind. Georgians believe that neither Trump nor Putin should have anything to do with the future of Georgia.
Definitely need strong legs to wheel that around!
An artist has painted hundreds of electrical boxes around Tbilisi.
A Mosque.
Smoke break outside the bath house.
In the very touristy area with our 32 year-old guide.
Throughout the next five days, we often ran into many of her friends.
We crossed giant intersections by going under the road. Of course, it's a great place to try to sell things.
Robin and our perfunctory silly hat picture. The sheep herders wear these so that the sheep can recognize them.
A gimmicky name for a nightclub.
Lunch was soup with... khachapuri.
Women have to wear head scarves or something to cover their hair when entering churches. Apparently, my hood also works.
Women are also NOT allowed to ever step foot on the alter or the stairs leading up to them.
Drinking is a favorite past time and they almost take non-drinkers as a personal insult. More on that further below.
They are known for their rugs.
An inner courtyard of a tenement that smelled strongly of cat piss.
The berikaoba sculpture circle is a group of dancers commemorating an ancient rite celebrating spring.
In front of the Parliament Building where their have been daily protests and demonstrations since the end of October, 2024. Georgia is currently undergoing a political crisis due to the disputed legitimacy of the October 2024 Georgian parliamentary election, which was conducted with significant irregularities and described by observers as "fundamentally flawed".
The protests have also been about the pro-Russian government delaying the vote to join the EU until 2028.
We were told that the Georgian Dream Party (currently in power) "pretends" to be pro-EU by allowing the EU flag on buildings, but they are not. (The government gives approval on which flags to fly on public buildings).
This is the monument commemorating the April 9 Tragedy (also known as the massacre of Tbilisi). It refers to the events on April 9, 1989, when an anti-Soviet, pro-independence demonstration was crushed by the Soviet Army, resulting in 21 deaths and hundreds of injuries. Seventeen of the dead were women. April 9 is now remembered as the National Unity Day, an annual public holiday.
Because the protestors were burning plastic garbage cans, the city is now using these for garbage.
We went to this Museum and I only...
...took one photo!
We were supposed to take a cable car to the top of the mountain but it was under repair. So, we were driven to the top to see this old Soviet TV Tower that is still in use to this day.
The Funicular Restaurant is below the tower and is the most expensive restaurant in Tbilisi. It's where the visiting dignitaries eat.
It does have an awesome view!
The restaurant for dinner tonight.
The usual cucumber/tomato salad and a mint/cheese "soup".
Tonight's khachapuri has spinach and cheese.
Garlic chicken (boat-like bowl) and beef in a walnut sauce is the pot.
Dessert was ALWAYS fruit!
April 14, 2025
Former National Scientific Library, complete 1985, Modernist, Soviet architecture.
Former Ministry of Highway Construction, now the HQ of the Bank of Georgia, completed 1974, Modernist, Soviet architecture.
Jvari Church high on a hill.
The Church was supposed to be open, but wasn't. Many people were waiting for the arrival of the "Candle Lady" to open it.
This poor dog had an injured paw and just sat in the rain.
I was hoping she wouldn't arrive... but here comes the candle lady.
It was SO packed inside and the candle lady would pound on a table and shush everyone.
We are in the historic town of Mtskheta northwest of Tbilisi.
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral.
Not only are we required to wear a head scarf, but we must have some dress-like covering down to our knees. Apparently, my long coat suffices.
Because it is Easter week, there was some very solemn service going on.
I was trying to be reverent and respectful, but...
...every time I looked at Robin, I burst out laughing.
She'd rather be outside with the dogs anyway!
Those hanging things are Churchkhela - a traditional Georgian candy, shaped like a candle and made by dipping strings of nuts (typically walnuts) into grape juice thickened in flour. Our guide bought several for us to try.
Headed into a family winery for a wine tasting.
Instead of aging the crushed grapes in oak barrels, it's aged in clay pots underground.
The wine tasting room was... a bit much to take in.
Time to try the churchkhala.
I'm not a fan. I was much happier with the bread, cheese, and dried fruit.
I have to say something about wine-tastings in Georgia (the oldest wine-producing country in the world). I have never been SO pressured to drink. Our guide did not even understand the concept of someone in recovery and not drinking. She said we could "at least take a sip for the toast". Then she told us we could have the limoncello because it was "ONLY 20% alcohol". She was beyond baffled when we told her no.
Because it was freezing in the room, I would much rather to have stood here the whole time.
Jason tried just a sip of the Grappa which was 96% alcohol and started coughing (while our guide downed her shot without making a face). He threw the rest of it in the fire and it produced this fireball.
However, we were game to try the wine ice cream!
It was pretty good and tasted nothing like wine.
Now we have a 2-hour drive to Kutaisi. We are once agin trying to dry our wet shoes and socks.
You can see the jagged official Russian border north of the blue dot. However, we were just a few miles from South Ossetia which is mostly inhabited by Russian military and their families and is now regarded as the new unofficial Russian border.
The terrain was beautiful.
Our driver said this was the best place to get sweet bread. He bought two bags for all of us.
Not so good. We snuck our pieces to the street dogs.
Almost to Kutaisi!
This says "I love Kutaisi" in one of Georgia's three alphabets.
Our last stop was Prometheus Cave before heading to dinner.
It's nearly a mile long.
More stairs. Thankfully, only headed down this time.
I'm not fond of caves but this place was pretty impressive.
Photos don't really do it justice.
I have no idea why it's this color.
We waited 20 minutes for our boat that takes us out.
We all have to wear a helmet because the ceiling is only several inches above our head.
Arriving for dinner.
Although it looked pretty traditional...
... it was quirky and they were playing Alice in Chains on the TV above the bar.
The first course before khachapuri and the meat dishes.
Glad to take a walk after dinner with no rain!
A fountain in the roundabout.
This says "I love you" over and over.
Glory to the Labor Movement monument – 1980
Even the smaller cities have nightly protests.
April 15, 2025
We only spent one night at the Grand Opera Hotel.
The room was totally fine but the shower only had cold water or boiling hot water.
We were the only people at breakfast.
Unfortunately, it's back to rain again.
Of all the cities they could put for the US, they chose Columbia...? Turns out that they consider Columbia MISSOURI to be a sister city.
Why are all the McDonalds in 2-story, fantastic buildings?
The mural at the farmers market is from 1985 and symbolizes the lifestyle of western Georgians throughout the last couple centuries.
Usually the farmers market is Robin's thing but I loved this market. It was very different and interesting. Here you see churchkhela over dried fruits.
Homemade, bottled plum sauce in Coca-Cola bottles. We had plum sauce at every meal.
Easter cakes.
Red food coloring to dye Easter eggs. They only do red ones and no other color.
The pickled vegetable line is waiting for customers.
I would never have guessed these were dried persimmons. They look like some sea creature.
Georgia is definitely known for walnuts.
A very smart street dog hanging out at the meat department.
Bagrati Cathedral.
At this point, we are feeling very churched, cathedraled, and monastaried out.
However, the next monastery was probably my favorite one of all.
Gelati Monastery in the heavily wooded mountains.
Although we still have to go inside and hear the stories...
... to me, "God" is out here.
Gorgeous!
One of the very few times we actually stopped for a proper lunch.
We are now in the very small town of Akhaltsikhe. This is the view from our supposedly 4-star hotel.
No refrigerator. So a pigeon is eyeing my Coke Zero on the outside window ledge to stay cold. Not sure about the window sill.
The dinner at the hotel was good. The usual cucumber/tomato salad, khachapuri, stuffed eggplant, carrot salad, pork "ragu" (pot), and beef Kofta rolls.
April 16, 2025
Both in Armenia and Georgia, we were near the Turkish border.
Political parties have random numbers. This is the Georgian Dream Party headquarters.
Cave Town with its hundreds of steps.
I opted out of this excursion because it was freezing and I was having issues with one knee.
Was SO glad I didn't go but Robin enjoyed it.
Yes.. those are sloppy, wet snow flurries!
The weather finally improved and they picked me up to go to Rabati Fortress.
It's also called the Akhaltsikhe Castle Complex. It's located in Samtskhe-Javakheti, Akhaltsikhe city, in the historical district of "Rabati". Various historical buildings of the 9th-19th centuries are gathered in the territory of the castle.
The first time we've come across a street puppy. I sure hope these older dogs show them how to cross the street and get food!
Tonight's dinner is at some cheesy wedding venue.
My least favorite dinner. The worst part was the extremely loud singer that restricted any conversation.
April 17, 2025
Our whole Georgian portion was in this very nice Mercedes van. Robin has a bag full of last night's dinner to feed to the dogs.
Honestly, we've never seen this many homeless dogs in any country we've been in. While the city dogs are well fed by the restaurants and some are even grossly overweight, the rural dogs are generally underweight.
They are always happy to see Robin!
Robin really researches every trip. She finds abandoned Soviet buildings in the middle of nowhere that are quite interesting. Our guide and driver are unsure about taking us to her next recommendation, especially because we have to drive across this rickety, wooden bridge.
But the Sanitorium Mountain Valley building was quite amazing! It was completed in 1984 and was a hospital and spa.
All of us - including our guide - took many photos of the colorful mosaics.
Hopefully, someone restores this building some day.
This building is supposed to be abandoned but obviously people are living here.
It looks like parts could fall at any time.
In the town of Borjomi at their central park. Part nature walk - part theme park.
They are known for their warm mineral springs.
Of course, more dogs.
Some are very resourceful and drink out of the fountain.
Wow... what a huge Wisteria vine!
Waterfalls by the Monument of Prometheus.
Pine and bud "ointmtots" can cure hemorrhoids, cracked skin, and prevent hair loss.
Administration Building, completed early 70s, Artwork Soviet relief.
Soviet city mosaic - 1982.
I learned something new on this trip. Georgia is considered a Eurasian country. I did not know that there is actually a dividing line where one side is Europe and one side is Asia. This area is where the dividing line is located (per the sign).
Hard to capture the faraway Caucuses Mountains.
We are now in the town of Gori - the birthplace of Joseph Stalin. We are at the Stalin Museum where we all had a bit of a shock. We expected the museum to be about the millions of people who died under his rule from executions, famine, and war.
But there was nothing but worship for their hometown hero.
When I googled it later, Wikipedia states,“The only part of the former Soviet Union where admiration for Stalin has remained consistently widespread is Georgia, although Georgian attitudes are sharply divided. Many Georgians resent criticism of him, the most famous figure in their country's modern history. A 2013 poll by Tbilisi State University found 45% of Georgians expressing "a positive attitude" toward him.”
Only at the very end of our tour did our guide acknowledge that there was a "negative side" with people having "versions" of the truth.
The home where he was born is protected by a building around it.
The railcar he traveled in.
Either it had very bad energy or was just old. But I couldn't wait to get out.
Now you can buy your Stalin socks!
At another Cave Town. This one is called Uplistikhe. Finally sunny skies and short-sleeved shirts!
We descended the cave town down stairs that felt like we were inside a whale.
So happy for this gorgeous day!
This photo and the next are just random van shots.
Our final dinner on our final day of the tour. We are at a banquet facility for our gala night.
The room eventually mostly filled up.
I loved all these food items - stuffed red peppers, beetroot, eggplant, and chopped onion balls.
Of course, one last khachapuri.
Chicken and beef on skewers over hot coals. They call this "BBQ".
The band was decent and we loved the sound of the musical instrument of the man in red.
Traditional Georgian dances.
Our guide had us do many toasts throughout the trip. There were quite a few on this last night.
I wish this weren't blurry. This waiter cleared a table of ALL the dishes of about 18 people - at one time!
April 18, 2025
Our final day. We are on our own because this was designated a "free day". However, it is Good Friday and some places may be closed.
Because of the clearer weather, we are able to see things in Tblisi that were obscured before. The round dome is part of the bathhouse complex.
Another beautiful 2-story McDonalds!
About every third car is a right sided driving wheel car. They are cheaper than the left sided wheel cars. I have no idea how they pass when they must pull way into the other lane to see.
This bathroom in a mall only took a credit card to use it. I looked at my cc charge - .37 cents.
I guess if you don't have a back yard or second floor, you can just hang your laundry along the sidewalk!
We kept coming across old cars.
We also came across many political signs and graffiti.
The sentiment ran along the same lines... hating Putin and all Russians.
A view from above.
Former Palace of Rituals or Wedding Palace, completed 1984, Soviet Modernist. Notice the sign below pointing to George W. Bush Highway. There was a Georgian President that was very pro-American and friends with W when he was president.
Somehow or other, we always end up walking along some dangerous highway that no one else seems to walk on. On this one, I could see a tunnel ahead that goes through the rock.THANKFULLY, we turned around and went back and called an Uber instead. When we went through the tunnel in the Uber, it was very dark, had very little shoulder with cars whizzing by, and was 2km long!
We are at a trendy, gentrifying area where the artists (as usual) have moved in.
The sign (on the left) says Fabrika which means factory. The center Soviet bas-relief has something to do with Astrology.
This was the first person on the whole trip who really hounded us to buy his artwork. Turns out he was from... New Mexico.
The inside of Fabrika was a giant workspace with young people forty years younger than us.
We opted to split a hamburger and fries instead of more traditional Georgian cuisine. Notice the sign on the cooler door.
Great street art.
I love that you can just walk down a street and come across random artwork. This is the former Soviet House of Political Education, completed in 1978.
I though this was a striking derelict building but it turns out people live there.
Since my website has been dogs, dogs, dogs... I thought I'd give a shoutout to the cats.
The Tbilisi Music Theatre and Concert Hall in Rike Park was scheduled to open in 2017 but remains unused.
A very retro police station.
Thrilled that our prepaid tour dinner for tonight included a large salad.
No fruit plate tonight! Chocolate mousse instead. What a fabulous ending to a fantastic trip!
EPILOGUE:
Although I never do this, I wanted to give you the conclusion to our story. With very little sleep and a 1-hour layover in Munich (going through passport control, security and changing terminals), I apparently dropped my Portuguese residency card. I flew home to Porto and was contacted by Lufthansa stating it was found and was with the federal police and I had a week to pick it up before it disappeared into a “black hole” that was the Portuguese embassy. After talking to others, everyone recommended that I just retrieve it in person because otherwise I might not be allowed back into PT when leaving the EU. Flights were €900+ because of Easter week. I was able to extend the deadline and cut that amount in half. Thankfully I did, because I had a high fever for 2 days because of a lung infection and could not function. Anyway, I eventually flew to Munich and retrieved the card. I think I deserve a pass on losing it since I was not feeling well.
About Robin… A friend that works with wildlife URGED her to go to the doctor about the dog bite that she got in Georgia on the way to Cave Town. It turns out that rabies is endemic in Georgia!! So she had to go through a 6-week series of rabies shots. The public system in Portugal had to jump through a few hoops to get the medication because no one has ever dealt with a possible rabies infection. So... an interesting ending to our trip!