shkoder, albania
September 11, 2019
This is going to be a rather short section because we only spent one day in Albania. Our guide picked us up at 9am after our usual mediocre breakfast, and we headed for the border. The border was interesting. The line we were in didn't have many cars at all, but moved extremely slow. The border agents did let a few cars cut around us because those people knew someone that worked for customs. Even though our guide also "knew someone", he wasn't working today and so we waited nearly an hour to get through.
This is going to be a rather short section because we only spent one day in Albania. Our guide picked us up at 9am after our usual mediocre breakfast, and we headed for the border. The border was interesting. The line we were in didn't have many cars at all, but moved extremely slow. The border agents did let a few cars cut around us because those people knew someone that worked for customs. Even though our guide also "knew someone", he wasn't working today and so we waited nearly an hour to get through.
On our drive, we learned several things about Albania. For a long time, it was a very closed country. A paranoid dictator closed the borders after WWII for approximately 40 years. He built 173,000 bunkers throughout Albania. Because the people were very poor, many of them tried to escape. Smuggling people out of Albania across Skadar Lake was a lucrative business. The countryside was definitely a mixed bag. We saw some modern homes and other buildings, but most of what we saw showed that it is still a developing country.
After the viewpoint, we continued on to Shkoder. Shkoder turned out to be dirty and chaotic. In many ways, it seemed similar to Hanoi. Our guide explained to us that there are basically no rules at all on the road. The people on bicycles would just dart across several lanes of traffic. We actually almost hit the same woman twice. Once when she cut in front of us and then again about 15 minutes later when we had turned around to try to find parking. She was completely unfazed to her near death both times.
We couldn't find any parking, so we decided to go up to Rozafa castle. The castle sits high above the town and dates to BC times.
When we drove back to the city center, it wasn't as crazy. So we were able to find parking and then walk to the restaurant that was recommended to us. We walked past many loose dirty dogs, scraggly cats, and tons of stinking garbage. Albania was the antithesis of Slovenia when it came to trash. The sidewalks and alleys were full of fetid, rotting garbage. Of the four countries we visited, three are listed as a developing country (not Slovenia). But Albania was definitely the least developed of those three.
We walked a long ways to get to the restaurant. Thankfully, it was at a hotel that accepted euros so we didn't have to convert to Albanian Leks. The cost for pizza, spaghetti, and three sodas/waters? Less than $10. So super cheap. Our guide told us that many people come from Montenegro to shop for clothing, shoes, even wedding dresses because it's so inexpensive. But then you "have to know someone" to get over the border without paying taxes (I put that in quotation marks because we heard that phrase so often).
We spent the rest of the afternoon walking around Shkoder. There were some nicer areas and I did get some interesting photos.
Unfortunately, the lines at the border into Montenegro were very long. It took us well over an hour and we almost got to see an altercation. Apparently, motorcycles just drive to the front of the line. Well one guy had had enough. He got out of his car and went up to the three motorcycle drivers and started yelling at them. Then he went back to his car and floored it around several other cars to cut off the motorcycles. I told our guide that in the US that may have resulted in a road rage incident and someone ends up being shot dead. Our guide was quite shocked to find out that many people in the US own guns and that many carry them with them - like in cars, churches, stores, etc. In Montenegro, you can only have a gun with a license to hunt, and even then it can only be certain animals at certain times of the year. I've found that people that live outside the US are pretty shocked about our obsession/addiction to guns.
Thank You, Universe... I am so grateful to have spent this day in Albania!
Thank You, Universe... I am so grateful to have spent this day in Albania!