spain
Soller, mallorca
April 14, 2010
We are packing our suitcases for our 7 AM departure leaving Soller. Mallorca has been absolutely beautiful. When we arrived two days ago, we quickly bypassed the larger city of Palma, and went directly to the train station for our vintage train ride to Soller. The train took about 75 minutes, winding through beautiful mountain countryside and tunnels that go directly through the mountain. The train itself was rickety, cold, and bumpy. But the town of Soller – beautiful! High rocky mountains, orange trees and olive groves, strange-looking trees, wildflowers, and a quaint cobblestone street town around a small central square. We have a fabulous hotel right on the square called La Vila. The first day we arrived around 2 PM, so we just walked the narrow, winding streets and visited the small shops and markets. We bought an olive wood cutting board and ate at a restaurant on the square. It was pretty chilly the whole first day. We went into a very old and spooky Catholic church on the square. It was damp, dark, and cold inside. I hate to say this… there was nothing inside that felt “spiritual” to me. It felt more spiritual outside on the steps with the flower beds.
We are packing our suitcases for our 7 AM departure leaving Soller. Mallorca has been absolutely beautiful. When we arrived two days ago, we quickly bypassed the larger city of Palma, and went directly to the train station for our vintage train ride to Soller. The train took about 75 minutes, winding through beautiful mountain countryside and tunnels that go directly through the mountain. The train itself was rickety, cold, and bumpy. But the town of Soller – beautiful! High rocky mountains, orange trees and olive groves, strange-looking trees, wildflowers, and a quaint cobblestone street town around a small central square. We have a fabulous hotel right on the square called La Vila. The first day we arrived around 2 PM, so we just walked the narrow, winding streets and visited the small shops and markets. We bought an olive wood cutting board and ate at a restaurant on the square. It was pretty chilly the whole first day. We went into a very old and spooky Catholic church on the square. It was damp, dark, and cold inside. I hate to say this… there was nothing inside that felt “spiritual” to me. It felt more spiritual outside on the steps with the flower beds.
Today was our full day in Soller. We had a nice breakfast at our hotel, and then caught the tram down to Port de Soller. The tram is an old San Francisco cable car. The port is unbelievably picturesque. Dark blue and turquoise water surrounded in a U shape by the city with cute cafés, shops, and restaurants. We ended up taking a four hour hike up and up and up the mountains, first visiting an old lighthouse with scenic port views down below. We then went even higher up, through 600 year-old knotted olive trees, fragrant orange trees, scattering goats, and narrow rocky trails. We ended up at the Mulata, which is where there are these old stone homes dating to 1586. The rocky trail was extremely rough at times, almost like we were walking on balls. Our ankles twisted and turned, but thankfully, no injuries. When we got back down to the town, we ate pizza (again!) in bright sun at a seaside restaurant overlooking hundreds of sailboats. The town is filled with tourists, mostly German. We have yet to run into any Americans. I am so GLAD that we came to Soller and Port de Soller… it’s just visually stunning!
barcelona
April 16, 2010
We have been in Barcelona the last day and a half. Yesterday was cold and drizzly. We caught up on some laundry in our room (bathroom sink) and did some walking around the city. But we mostly caught up on our sleep for our big day today.
We woke up to more cold and drizzle. We headed south down Las Ramblas towards the old Gothic Quarter to an English-speaking AA meeting. It was in a very old church and we were really lucky to find it. There were a couple tourists there from Denmark and France, but the majority were Californians who now live in Barcelona. It turned out to be an excellent meeting and the perfect way to start the day. We left the Gothic Quarter to cut through a very large market on our way to the Picasso museum. The museum was of his earlier work; paintings with street scenes and portraits. It was nothing like the abstract art I was used to. Afterwards we were searching for a place for lunch, and stumbled upon our best restaurant on the trip. It was a vegetarian restaurant. We ordered a three course meal that included salad bar and vegan cakes. Robin was in heaven, it was her first salad in nine days! After French fries, pizzas with cheese, ice cream and potatoes bravas… I was so happy to be able to eat healthy again.
We have been in Barcelona the last day and a half. Yesterday was cold and drizzly. We caught up on some laundry in our room (bathroom sink) and did some walking around the city. But we mostly caught up on our sleep for our big day today.
We woke up to more cold and drizzle. We headed south down Las Ramblas towards the old Gothic Quarter to an English-speaking AA meeting. It was in a very old church and we were really lucky to find it. There were a couple tourists there from Denmark and France, but the majority were Californians who now live in Barcelona. It turned out to be an excellent meeting and the perfect way to start the day. We left the Gothic Quarter to cut through a very large market on our way to the Picasso museum. The museum was of his earlier work; paintings with street scenes and portraits. It was nothing like the abstract art I was used to. Afterwards we were searching for a place for lunch, and stumbled upon our best restaurant on the trip. It was a vegetarian restaurant. We ordered a three course meal that included salad bar and vegan cakes. Robin was in heaven, it was her first salad in nine days! After French fries, pizzas with cheese, ice cream and potatoes bravas… I was so happy to be able to eat healthy again.
After lunch we went to two more museums. Both were contemporary museums with some very peculiar things. Movies with monks lying on the ground cutting themselves, scary real-looking life-size midgets, and pictures of old Hollywood stars with their eyes and mouths burned out. That was at CCCB, and from there we went to the museum of contemporary art and it got even stranger. So then we blew through that museum and walked back to the hotel. That night, we went to an uninspiring dinner that costs $53. We think that our correct order got lost in translation. Dinner doesn’t start until 8 PM, and we were always the first ones to arrive in the restaurant. We had planned to go out for the nightlife that night, but after walking probably ten miles we were too tired.
April 17, 2010
Our first stop of the day was to Barcelona's most well-known landmark - La Sagrada Familia. We did the guided headphone tour. The detail of the sculpture and the building is unbelievable. I have more of an appreciation for Gaudi (pronounced Gow-di), because he took his inspiration from nature. He used shapes and patterns like beehives, trees, etc. He died with it unfinished forty years into the project. The restoration began in the 80’s, and they expect it to continue for at least 20 more years!!
Our first stop of the day was to Barcelona's most well-known landmark - La Sagrada Familia. We did the guided headphone tour. The detail of the sculpture and the building is unbelievable. I have more of an appreciation for Gaudi (pronounced Gow-di), because he took his inspiration from nature. He used shapes and patterns like beehives, trees, etc. He died with it unfinished forty years into the project. The restoration began in the 80’s, and they expect it to continue for at least 20 more years!!
We then took the Metro to a stop near Park Guell, went up what seemed like a mile’s worth of escalators, and ended up at another one of Gaudi’s masterpieces – the park. The view was spectacular. Everything in the park was done in mosaic tiles. The drizzly rain was over and the weather was beautiful this day, and we could have sat there forever.
We eventually made our way back down the mountainside and had lunch at a Lebanese café with ruby red walls. Pizza… again. We ended up going to two more museums, another strange one called “Antonin Topias” and then La Pedrera, which is another of Gaudi’s. La Pedrera is more of a building than a museum. It’s very stony looking and strange. La Pedrera means “stone quarry.” It was right around the corner from our hotel.
April 18, 2010
We headed to the airport to fly home early this morning. However, as we were standing in line to board the plane, they shut down the entire airport. A volcano had erupted a few days ago in Iceland, and most of the airports in Europe were closed. We didn't expect the shutdown to be as far south as Spain, but they weren't taking any chances. While waiting at the airport, we ended up meeting two women, Kristin and Sherri, from San Diego. After waiting for several hours, it was clear we weren't getting out today. So the four of us all came back to downtown Barcelona. They ended up getting a room at our same hotel - Hotel Sixty Two. We went back to the wonderful vegetarian restaurant for dinner. Our delay of 24 hours ending up being delightful rather than stressful, mostly because we were able to hang out with them.
Thank You, thank You, thank You…. for an amazing and wonderful trip!!!
We headed to the airport to fly home early this morning. However, as we were standing in line to board the plane, they shut down the entire airport. A volcano had erupted a few days ago in Iceland, and most of the airports in Europe were closed. We didn't expect the shutdown to be as far south as Spain, but they weren't taking any chances. While waiting at the airport, we ended up meeting two women, Kristin and Sherri, from San Diego. After waiting for several hours, it was clear we weren't getting out today. So the four of us all came back to downtown Barcelona. They ended up getting a room at our same hotel - Hotel Sixty Two. We went back to the wonderful vegetarian restaurant for dinner. Our delay of 24 hours ending up being delightful rather than stressful, mostly because we were able to hang out with them.
Thank You, thank You, thank You…. for an amazing and wonderful trip!!!
