hungary
budapest
July 23, 2012
We were up very early to catch our train. That wasn't too difficult since it's complete daylight at 5:30 am. We arrived at the station an hour ahead of time, not knowing that they only show the correct platform for your train 15 minutes before your scheduled departure. Because everything is written in Czech and we were so afraid of being at the wrong terminal and the wrong platform, I asked around until I found someone going to Budapest. We just followed her. The train ride itself was long and somewhat boring, crossing through the Czech Republic, Slovakia and into Hungary. Mostly farmland and a few large fields full of sunflowers. There was no food or drink on the train...I'm glad we brought a few pastries and warm water.
We were up very early to catch our train. That wasn't too difficult since it's complete daylight at 5:30 am. We arrived at the station an hour ahead of time, not knowing that they only show the correct platform for your train 15 minutes before your scheduled departure. Because everything is written in Czech and we were so afraid of being at the wrong terminal and the wrong platform, I asked around until I found someone going to Budapest. We just followed her. The train ride itself was long and somewhat boring, crossing through the Czech Republic, Slovakia and into Hungary. Mostly farmland and a few large fields full of sunflowers. There was no food or drink on the train...I'm glad we brought a few pastries and warm water.
Then I was very worried about the warnings not to take a taxi at the train station. Not because you'll be kidnapped, like Colombia, but because you will be ripped off. So we were going to walk down the hot, dusty, crowded streets until we found a hotel to order us a "legit" taxi. We were immediately accosted by drivers trying to steer us towards their taxis from the moment we stepped off the train. We walked by them all, and then the thought of getting ripped off was less stressful than the thought of crossing huge intersections in nearly 90-degree heat looking for a hotel. So we paid a whopping $23 total to travel 3 miles... not sure if we were ripped off or not. But well worth it!
So a few early observations about Budapest...the outskirts seem dirty and rougher than Prague, but the riverfront seems more sophisticated, glamorous and cosmopolitan. Where Prague seemed like "slap your beer buddy on the back" this seems more like the area for the 1%. It may be the hotel we are in, everyone is dressed in gowns and suits. Part of it is a very large Ukrainian Mafia-looking wedding party, but there is also a financial group from Wall Street that seems to have the entire hotel. The executive lounge is much more glamorous than the one in Prague. The lounge in Prague had Midwestern-looking couples and families and MTV on the television, this one has all chrome and glass and a panoramic view with a giant wrap-around balcony overlooking several bridges over the Danube and the sprawling city. It's filled with business people and others who look like the super-rich. Definitely a different crowd than Prague!
So a few early observations about Budapest...the outskirts seem dirty and rougher than Prague, but the riverfront seems more sophisticated, glamorous and cosmopolitan. Where Prague seemed like "slap your beer buddy on the back" this seems more like the area for the 1%. It may be the hotel we are in, everyone is dressed in gowns and suits. Part of it is a very large Ukrainian Mafia-looking wedding party, but there is also a financial group from Wall Street that seems to have the entire hotel. The executive lounge is much more glamorous than the one in Prague. The lounge in Prague had Midwestern-looking couples and families and MTV on the television, this one has all chrome and glass and a panoramic view with a giant wrap-around balcony overlooking several bridges over the Danube and the sprawling city. It's filled with business people and others who look like the super-rich. Definitely a different crowd than Prague!
The view from our room!
View from the rooftop concierge lounge with scarecrow blackbird.
Nearby hotel lobby
When we finally got here we were starving, so we ate at one of the first waterfront restaurants we came to. The service at the restaurant was absolutely terrible. We immediately asked the waiter when he came up if they took credit cards and he said yes. After he took our order we never saw him again, and the guy we tried to pay after our mediocre meal insisted it was cash only. He finally relented. We did read that about Hungary, you'll get many different versions. But that was our only paid meal for the day, thank God for the executive level concierge lounge! The food has been excellent, plus it is absolutely the most fantastic view!
However, the best views of the day were on the Danube river cruise. We went after dark on a narrated tour of the buildings and history along the river (with headphones and tape, in 30 languages). All the buildings are bathed in dazzling and spectacular light with the huge Parliament building being the most beautiful. Unfortunately, my inferior camera does not capture the beauty of the buildings or bridges. We crossed under five bridges total, all of which were destroyed during World War II. On a huge cliff outcropping, towering above the city is a lighted statue of a woman holding a giant palm leaf, the hope for peace after the war. Everything on the river was very well lit with that same golden light quality. Combine that with the rhythm of the waves, a light breeze, and an orangish sliver of the moon - and it felt like a magical night!
July 24, 2012
We woke up late today since we had such little sleep the night before. Today was the day it was supposed to be 90 degrees, although I don't think it made it close to that. We started out the day going to the three-story market. You know...new city, new fruits and vegetables! Robin and her fresh markets. :) It must be her association to plants...? She wants me to take a picture of every case and every stall, so now we have photos of Hungarian lemons, pastries, chicken, spices, sausages, pasta and fish!
We woke up late today since we had such little sleep the night before. Today was the day it was supposed to be 90 degrees, although I don't think it made it close to that. We started out the day going to the three-story market. You know...new city, new fruits and vegetables! Robin and her fresh markets. :) It must be her association to plants...? She wants me to take a picture of every case and every stall, so now we have photos of Hungarian lemons, pastries, chicken, spices, sausages, pasta and fish!
We then walked to the Museum of Terror. It used to be the actual place where the Hungarian Nazis and then the Communists interrogated, imprisoned and executed hundreds of people. It was originally known as "The House of Loyalty" and was occupied by the Arrow Cross. Bad energy, especially in the basement where they had the barest of cells and torture chambers. I didn't know that, in 1956, Hungary withdrew from the Warsaw Pact, proclaimed its neutrality, and asked for the U.N.'s assistance. But Soviet tanks came in, and for the second time in 11 years, Budapest was again in ruins. Two hundred thousand people left the country, fifteen thousand were arrested, and many were subsequently executed. No wonder it has taken some time to put the city back together. I was thinking that any damage we saw was still from the War, but it can also be from 1956. In our walks today, I did see some buildings that were clearly from the communist mass-housing era. I like Budapest. I can't really say whether I like Budapest or Prague better. Budapest feels a bit more raw, while Prague feels very romantic (and drunk! :)
Tonight we walked over the Bridge of Chains to the Buda side (we are in Pest). However, it is raining, so we were only gone for an hour. We have to be out by 9:30 tomorrow for our flight to Dubrovnik.
Thank You for my wonderful life!
Thank You for my wonderful life!
